TS 

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Facts for Salesmen 



Rajmsters 



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United States Ryliber Company 




Copyrigto^i^. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Facts for Salesmen 
RAYNSTERS 



Information for Salesmen 
OF THE Clothing Division 
OF THE United States 
Rubber Company, Compiled 
BY THE Sales Department 




United States Rubber Company 

1921 



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Copyright, 19'21 
By The United States Rubber Company 



m 19 1921 
g)C!.A630l08 



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^ CONTENTS 

Foreword Page 

Chapter I — Evolution of '* Raynster " 1 

Chapter II — Rubber 7 

Chapter III — Compounds 11 

Chapter IV — Fabrics 17 

Chapter V — Designing of Clothing 29 

Chapter VI — Manufacture and Construction of 

Rubber Surface Clothing 31 

Chapter VII — Manufacture of Slipons, Single and 

Double Texture Clothing 50 



FOREWORD 

This booklet tells how the United States Rubber 
Company's line of waterproof clothing is manufactured. 

Although the booklet is written for salesmen, to 
help them sell goods, no attempt has been made to 
develop selling arguments, or to provide ready-made 
phrases for selling talks. 

As its title indicates, it is a book of facts, and facts 
alone. 

But the plain facts about the fundamental factor 
in any sale — the article itself — should be of greatest 
value to the salesman. Their study should give him a 
clearer picture of the production organization of the 
Company, a more accurate knowledge of the building- 
up of the goods, a sounder conception of their value. 

The questions at the end of each chapter should 
not be overlooked. Practise in answering them should 
focus the information facts they bring out into more 
convincing expression. 

Because of the nature of the book, it is imperative 
that each salesman be responsible that the copy loaned 
him remain always in his possession. It must be re- 
turned on call. To n.ake revision and editing complete, 
it is hoped that every salesman will supply whatever 
suggestions and information he can. 



Facts for Salesmen 
Raynsters 

CHAPTER I 
EVOLUTION OF ' RAYNSTER" 

IN 18^3 a Scotchman living in Glasgow, Scotland, dis- 
covered a method of rubberizing cloth by dissolving rub- 
ber in naphtha, spreading the mixture upon cloth, then 
evaporating the naphtha. By this method a rubber film was 
left upon the cloth, rendering it impervious to water. The 
Scotchman's name was Mackintosh, and the coats made by 
this method were called Mackintosh coats — the first to be 
made and sold commercially. These garments were imprac- 
tical, for the rubber became soft and sticky in warm weather, 
and rigid and hard in cold. 

How to produce a rubber compound that was not suscep- 
tible to seasonal and temperature changes was the problem 
of the day. That problem was solved in 1839 by Charles 
Goodyear, when he discovered that a proper degree of heat 
effected a chemical combination between rubber and sulphur 
producing a compound stronger than crude rubber, that re- 
tained its elasticity and was not effected by varying degrees 
of heat and cold. Goodyear permitted three factories to use 
his patents — all three of which are now^ members of the 
United States Rubber Company System. 

During the pioneer days of the rubber clothing industry, 
the combination between the rubber and sulphur was effected 
by exposing the coated fabrics to the heat of the sun's rays 

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Facts for Salesmen 



for a given time— the fabrics always being placed at an angle 
of fortv-five degrees, facing the sonth in order that the sun's 
heat might be distributed evenly over the surface. In this 
wav Gossamers, the first light-weight dress garments made of 
rubber-coated fabric in this country, were vulcanized. But 
this method had its limitations; since garments could not be 
cured during cloudy or inclement weather, production was 
severely retarded ; also, the amount of land required, and the 
time and labor necessary to lay out the cloth presented 
serious handicaps. 







^ ,. *> ^^'^^ •• -^ 1^ 



Old Solarizing Method of X'^iilcaiiizius 

The difficulty was overcome by the development of a 
method of vulcanizing by which the garments were placed in 
an air-tight chamber and subjected to heat for a definite time. 
I'his method marked a great step forward, for the temper- 
ature could be accurately controlled, and scientific study and 
improvement was thus made possible. The first factory to 
discard the old solarizing method of vulcanizing garments 
today belongs to the Ignited States Rubber Company. 

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EVOLITION OF "RaYNSTER 



About 1883 Gossamer coats began to lose their popularity 
and were superseded by the type now known as Single Tex- 
ture Slipons. The Gossamer type carried its light rubber 
coating on the exterior surface, having a plain cotton lin- 
ing, usually sheeting. The Single Texture Sliponwith the rub- 
ber coating inside could be made of a wide variety of the 
finest fabrics. This, together with modern designing methods, 
produced garments which were altogether more stylish. 
Double Texture coats followed close upon the heels of the 
Single Texture, and these, having the waterproof gum coat- 
ing between an outer and inner surface of fabric, presented 
a basis for still further style varieties and improvements, and 
were more strongly constructed to give long, sturdy service. 

What "RAYNSTER" Means. It is not difficult to adulter- 
ate the material in a rubber coat — rubber surface or slipons 
— and deceive the consumer and even the dealer. Externally 
two garments may appear the same, and yet be altogether 
at variance in their wearing qualities. One coat proves to be 
non-waterproof, it leaks and goes to pieces at the seams, the 
rubber cracks and decays: the other coat remains perfectly 
waterproof throughout, preserves its original style and finish 
and gives satisfactory service during its life. With the devel- 
opment and increasing popularity of waterproof clothing, nu- 
merous manufacturers and makers of raincoats entered the 
field. The manufacturer is responsible for every operation in 
the making of the garment from the raw materials to the fin- 
ished product, while the maker produces the garments from 
purchased rubberized fabrics. Multitudes of adulterated coats 

— raincoats in nothing but name and external appearance 

— were put upon the market. The public was led to infer be- 
cause of the names under which many of such coats were 
marketed, that they were manufactured by firms of estab- 
lished reliability. 

To combat these conditions, the United States Rubber 
Compan}^ decided to put their waterproof clothing products 

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Facts for Salesmen 



on an unimpeachable quality basis and to produce a complete 
line of clothing for men and women, boys and girls, of all 
classes and for all purposes — a line possessing honest, in- 
built value. In its manufacturing department it had three of 
the oldest rubber clothing factories in America, each of which 
had attained a reputation through some particular point of 
superiority in its products. 

These three factories were the old Boston Rubber Com- 
pany, known for its high quality throughout; the American 
Rubber Company, which stood for the best in style and fin- 
ish; and the Stoughton Rubber Company which gained its 
reputation through the exceptional quality of the rubber 
compounds used in its proofings, and its skill in applying 
proofings to the fabrics. 

Each company brought with it the ideas and the results 
of the endeavors of the men who had established its success. 
The United States Rubber Company combined these ideas 
and results and adopted the best. Then, to protect its cloth- 
ing products against imitations the name "Raynster" was 
coined and registered in the U. S. Patent Office. "Ravnster" 
means that in style, grade of fabrics, workmanship, proofing 
compound and cement, the article upon which it is placed in- 
corporates the greatest dollar value which the leaders in this 
industry have achieved. 

The United States Rubber Company. Behind the " Rayn- 
ster" label stands the United States Rubber Company. It is 
the largest manufacturer of rubber clothing in the world. It 
is the largest company in the entire rubber industry in the 
world. Its distributing system covers every State in the 
Union, and extends through Canada; while through its Ex- 
port Department the Company is represented in all the com- 
mercial centers of the world. 

Manufacturing Advantages of the Company. The follow- 
ing is a bare outline of the advantages possessed by the Com- 
pany from a manufacturing viewpoint, which enables it to 

R 4 



Evolution of "RAYNSTf:R 



place at the disposal of its salesmen goods which contain the 
greatest inbuilt value that the selling prices of the goods allow. 
The Company owns rubber plantations on the Island of 
Sumatra covering an area of approximately 140,000 acres. A 
constantly increasing supply of rubber of uniformly high 




4-:'-^' , t-f^M 



A Section of the Plantation 

standard is assured. From the planting of the trees to the fin- 
ished manufactured product, the rubber is under the care of 
the Company's own employees. 

In addition to the laboratories at the factories the Com- 
pany maintains in New York a general experimental rubber 
laboratory in which scientists of repute are engaged in study- 

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Facts for Salesmen 



ing the chemistry of this important substance, endeavoring 
to discover new uses for it and to develop better compounds 
for various purposes. 

At regular conferences, the chemists of all the factories 
meet in conference to exchange ideas and combine their sep- 
arately developed experiments into improved standards. A 
Planning Department works constantly to perfect the manu- 
facturing processes, a Mechanical Department designs nec- 
essary^ machinery, while the morale and efficiency of the or- 
ganization is maintained at high pitch through the Industrial 
Relations Department, which promotes in every way possible 
good-feeling and co-operation in the mills. 

In short, every factor known to modern business is uti- 
lized and developed that the great production machine shall 
operate as smoothly and accurately as the human element 
will allow. 

It is largely because of this efficient factory and inter- 
factory organization that the products of the United States 
Rubber Company, taken by and large, are unrivalled in giv- 
ing to the consumer the greatest value at lowest cost. The 
Company has earned its reputation by giving good service 
and full measure of value through many years. It is the aim 
of every loyal employee to guard that reputation. 

REVIEW 

1. What three manufacturers of waterproof clothing were 
brought into the United States Rubber Company System.^ 
What were the strong features of each company's pro- 
duct.^ What were the advantages of this consolidation.^ 

2. What guarantee of quality is the word "Raynster" to 
your customer.'' 

3. How is the United States Rubber Company organized to 
insure a uniform, high-quality product.^ 

4. What is the difference between a "Manufacturer" and a 
"Maker." 

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CHAPTER II 

RUBBER 

Rubber is obtained from a gum juice called "latex" 
which slowly exudes from certain tropical trees when the bark 
is cut. Latex is not the sap of the tree. It comes from cells in 
the bark itself, and no one has yet determined definitely what 
its function in the life of the tree may be. Rubber is usually 
designated as "wdld" or "cultivated." Wild rubber comes 
chiefly from Brazil, South America, the most important va- 



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^ lapping on the plantation. One-quarter of the Tree at a Time is Tapped 

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Facts for Salesmen 



riety being the Para, which is named after the main port from 
which the rubber is shipped. Less than fifty years ago (about 
1880) seeds of the trees from which Para rubber is obtained 
were transplanted to the island of Ceylon. This was the be- 
ginning of the cultivated or plantation product, which today 
comprises over 90% of the total amount of rubber consumed 
in the civilized world. 

The United States Rubber Company's Rubber Planta- 
tion. The directors of the Company foresaw the tremendous 
importance which rubber would assume in the industrial field 
and invested many millions of dollars in estates in the far east 
for the cultivation of plantation rubber. The estates were 
purchased on the Island of Sumatra. Today the plantations 
of the United States Rubber Company comprise an area of 
approximately 140,000 acres. It is the largest group of rubber 
estates in the world owned by one company. 

At the central plantation laboratory the best modern 
methods of coagulating the rubber, washing, drjang and pre- 
paring it for use in the factories are practised. Because of the 
systematic and scientific manner in which it is collected, and 
treated, the rubber arrives in this country comparatively free 
from dirt and moisture and is ready for use. Its quality is 
uniform, its supply constant. 

^^'ild rubber, on the other hand, often contains a large per- 
centage of moisture and foreign impurities, and this rubber 
must be unpacked when it arrives in port and submitted to a 
rigorous examination; and before use at the mill it must be 
specially cleansed and washed. 

Wild Para, however, makes an excellent cement and, in 
addition to the product of its own plantation, the Company 
uses a large quantity of Para rubber for cement-making pur- 
poses. 

Testing Rubber at Factory. When the rubber reaches the 
factory, it is carefully scrutinized, tested and classified ac- 
cording to quality. Each mill is equipped with a complete 

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Rubber 



chemical laboratory and a full set of miniature experimental 
machinery for the making of rubber goods. Each mill main- 
tains its own staff of chemists who are continually endeavor- 
ing to improve the products, or to produce the same standard 
quality goods at cheaper cost. 

The three most important tests to determine the quahty 
of crude rubber are the Acetone Extraction, the Ash and the 
Moisture tests. These are control tests, conducted to ascer- 
tain that the rubber received is up to our standard. The Ace- 
tone Extraction test shows the amount of resinous matter 
present in the rubber. This resinous matter is the sap of the 




Plantation Rubber as it arrives. Rubber, after it is washed 
at factory and after cutting 

rubber tree, as distinguished from the latex. Too deep cut- 
ting is usually the cause of getting resin in the latex, which is 
not desirable. In the test, a weighed sample of the specimen 
of the rubber to be examined is immersed in acetone— a liquid 
which dissolves the resinous matter. The weight of the rub- 
ber is again taken, and the difference in weight serves in cal- 
culating the percentage of resin present. 

The Ash test shows how much mineral impurity there is 
in any lot of rubber. A definite sample portion of the rubber 
is placed under a temperature of 600 degrees Centigrade. 
The rubber, being an organic substance, burns away, and 
nothing but ash or mineral matter remains. The weight of 

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Facts for Salesmen 



the ash is carefully noted and its percentage of the entire 
amount of rubber determined. 

The moisture test is made by cutting a rubber sample of 
given weight into small pieces and placing these in an electric 
oven at about 104° Centigrade (100° is boiling point for water 
in the Centigrade scale). The moisture is dried out, and the 
loss of w^eight in the sample represents the amount of moist- 
ure there was present. This test insures that no rubber is used 
in the manufacturing process which is not sufficiently dry, 
and is necessary because moisture would cause bubbles and 
flaws in the compound under the heat of vulcanization. 

REVIEW 

1. What advantage does plantation rubber possess over 
wild rubber.^ How does this cut down operating costs in 
the mills. ^ 

2. Why does the Company buy wild Para rubber.^ 

3. What are the three most important tests made on the raw 
rubber.^ What do they guard against? 



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CHAPTER III 

COMPOUNDS 

The combination of rubber with other substances is called 
a compound; and the process of combining the substances is 
known as compounding. The qualities of a compound, such 
as its strength, elasticity, resiliency, its ability to withstand 
the deteriorating effects of heat or light for any time-period, 
etc., depend fundamentally upon the proportions of rubber 

j and other substances used. 

j Elements in Rubber Compounds. The belief is frequent- 
ly encountered that various substances are added to rubber 

I to cut down the cost of production and increase the manufac- 

' turer's profits at the consumer's expense. This is far from 
the truth. It should be very carefully noted by salesmen 
that the United States Rubber Company uses different grades 
of compounds on different grades of clothing. The following 
is an outline of the ingredients employed in making com- 

i pounds for waterproofing clothing, with the main purposes of 
each. (1) Rubber. (2) Sulphur, the most important chemi- 

' cal ingredient which unites with the rubber to form a sub- 

j stance which has different properties from either rubber or 
sulphur. (3) Accelerators, such as litharge, which cut down the 
time necessary to effect the chemical change in the rubber 
and sulphur. (4) Softeners, or fluxes, such as pine tar or 
palm oil, used to promote mixing of the ingredients and the 
calendering out of the compound into a soft, plastic sheet of 
uniform smoothness. (5) Pigments, which impart the de- 
sired colors to the rubber, — such as carbon black (black), zinc 
oxide (white), lithopone (white), vermilions, red oxide (red), 
ultra marine blue (blue), chrome yellow (yellow). (6) Re- 
claimed stock (sometimes called shoddy) a stock obtained 

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Facts for Salesmen 



from de vulcanized rubber goods, from which al! fabric mate- 
rial is separated. (7) Fillers, substances which give body and 
firmness to the rubber. 

1. Rubber. It is a common belief that the real wearing 
value of a rubber coat, or any rubber goods, is in proportion 
to the weight of the compound; that heaviness is an unerring 
evidence of substantial value. As a matter of fact, the light- 
er the compound, generally speaking, the greater its strength, 
elasticity, resiliency and durability; and the explanation of 
this is, briefly, as follows: 

Rubber gum is a very light substance, having a specific 
gravity of .93.* It is the one lighter-than-water substance 
used in large quantity in compounds. The more rubber used 
in a compound up to a certain point, the greater the com- 
pound's strength, elasticity, resiliency and the better wull it 
resist cracking. As we have seen, the greater the propor- 
tion of rubber in any compound, the lighter will be its weight; 
and, in general, the greater the wearing utility of the garment 
made from it. 

2. Sulphur. As has already been noted, other substances 
must be compounded with rubber to render it useful for prac- 
tical, commercial work. Of these, the most important is sul- 
phur, a mineral powder, which, used in the right proportions 
combines with rubber when the two are subjected to proper 
heat, and changes its properties so that it becomes stronger 
and more elastic, and does not become sticky and soft in 
warm weather, or hard and stiff in cold weather. A rubber 
surface garment is sometimes seen to be lightly covered with 
a fine, grayish powder. This results when the quantity of 
sulphur used in the compound is more than sufficient to com- 
bine chemically with the rubber. The free powder slowly 
comes t o the surface and crystallizes there in a fine deposit. 

♦Specific gravity is the ratio between the weight of any volume of a substance and the 
weigrhtot an equal volume of water. A cubic foot of water weighs 62.5 pounds The weight 
of a cubic foot of rubber is 58.7 pounds. The weight of the cubic foot of rubber divided%v 
the weight of a cubic foot of water is the specific gravity of rubber. 58 7 divided by 6'* 5 is 
.9S, which means that the rubber is only .93 as heavy per cubic foot as water, which means 
that pure rubber will float. 

R 12 



Compounds 



This phenomenon is generally termed" blooming" and is un- 
desirable only on the ground of appearance. 

3. Accelerators. Properly to effect the rubber-sulphur 
combination in the method of vulcanization employed in man- 
ufacturing clothing, it is necessary to use an accelerator, such 
as litharge (lead oxide). If an accelerator were not used it 
would be necessary to employ such a large proportion of sul- 
phur that blooming would be inevitable. Litharge is a heavy 
material, about ten times as heavy as rubber, and therefore 
adds considerable weight. 

4. Reclaimed Rubbers and Fillers. The use of re- 
claimed stock and fillers in rubber compounds has caused 
much discussion. The facts are simply that these substan- 
ces do bring down cost. Used judiciously they impart "body" 
to a compound, but, if used in excess they do reduce the 
service giving qualities of the garment. Many rubber goods 
bearing variations of the names of standard manufacturers 
are sold by enterprising agents at prices made possible 
largely because of the use of cheap, inferior compounds in 
rubberizing the goods. 

Compounds in U. S. "Raynster" Clothing. One of the 
biggest reasons why a consumer should purchase "Rayn- 
ster" clothing is that he is assured high quality and full value 
in the compound — the inbuilt factor that means service. The 
United States Rubber Company places every penny's worth 
of value in each compound used in their lines of clothing. 

How the United States Rubber Company Tests Com- 
pounds and Compounding Ingredients. It would require a 
long and technical treatment to describe fully all the tests 
conducted to ascertain that the compounding ingredients 
used in our waterproof clothing articles are up to the Com- 
pany 's standards. There are certain fundamental facts about 
rubber goods, however, which are both helpful and interest- 
ing to a salesman. 

Cracking. Cutting, checking, cracking or breaking of 

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Facts for Salesmen 



any substance occurs generally at that place where there are 
large, rough -edged, or unevenly-sized particles of matter. 

In order that a rubber compound may have greatest tensile 
strength and possess highest resistance to checking, break- 
ing, etc., it is necessary that all the particles of matter, in all 
the ingredients, be small and of uniform size, and that the 
compound be so mixed as not to have any lumps within it. 
The utmost pains are taken in the factory laboratories that 
no ingredients are used which do net possess standard quali- 
fications. 

Chemical Tests. The tests which are niade on the ingre- 
dients used in the Company's compounds are numerous, 
and vary, of course, with the substances. Two typical tests 
which are made are the elutriation test and the sieve test. 
In the first of these, a sample of the powder to be tested is 
placed in water, in a glass vessel so equipped that the water 
and the finer powder particles run out at a definite rate, 
leaving the larger and rough edged particles behind; these 
latter are then examined under a microscope and the 
texture and shape determined. 

The sieve test is sup])lementary- In this, a sample of the 
powder to be tested is placed on a 200 mesh sieve. 
The percentage of particles which do not pass through the 
sieve is determined. I'he Company has rejected entire con- 
signments of powders which were shown by these tests to 
contain less than one-half of one per cent of unfit particles. 

Compound Tests. To determine the relative values of 
the different compounds in resisting checking, breaking, 
etc., samples trips are arranged in a series, like so many door 
hinges, between two solid blocks of wood which open and 
close in rapid succession; with each movement the rubber 
strips are flexed or folded upon themselves. At regular inter- 
vals the conditions of the samples being tested are examined 
and the time required to produce cracks in each sample is 
noted. 



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Compounds 



Another cracking test consists in exposing sample strips 
of rubber compounds to rain, wind, and sun, noting each day 
the condition of each strip and the reUitive difference of 
time necessary to produce cracking. 

Strength, Stretch, and Permanent Elongation Tests. The 
strength test is made by placing a sample strip of compound 
in a machine which, when set in operation, pulls the rubber 
apart until it breaks, a recorder registering the number of 
pounds of force necessary to produce the break. At the same 
time the elasticity test is made, by measuring how far the 
rubber stretches before bi-eaking. The permanent elongation 
test consists in stretching the rubber sample on a frame for 
a given period of time and releasing it. The increase in length 
indicates the permanent elongation. 

These three tests are made on a series of compounds, and 
the measurements recorded. Ihe compounds are then set for 
a stated time in an electric oven and the heat within is raised 
to a temperature of ^35 degrees Fahrenheit. They are then 
removed and the three tests made over again. The results 
show the relative values of the compounds in resisting heat. 

The tests just described are not the only ones used by 
tlie Company to insure that their quality standard will be 
maintained. Coloring materials are tested to insure min- 
imum variation. All chemicals undergo special tests in ac- 
cordance with their nature and uses. Moreover, continual 
tests are made of samples of the compounds as they go 
through the difl'erent processes of manufacture and a batch 
not up to our standard is immediately recalled. 

In addition to this, the experimental chemists, employed 
by the Company, are in continual ciuest for new compounds, 
for variations in the proportions of chemicals, or for different 
ingredients whose use will improve, if even slightly, the 
rugged service our products can give. 7'he members of the 
Laboratory Control at the separate factories meet regularly 
for the exchange of ideas and the standardization of methods. 

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Facts for Salesmen 



Keen minds are behind the "Eaynster" line, and no salesman 
need hesitate to state that the "Raynster" possesses the 
greatest inbuilt value possible per dollar of price. 

REVIEW 

1. Two popular misconceptions of the use oi* chemicals in 
rubber goods are; 

(a) That chemicals add nothing to the qualities of the 
article and are used simply to cheapen the product, and 

(b) That the m.ore a rubber compound weighs, the greater 
its wearing qualities. What are the facts .^ 

2. What chemical tests are used to insure that the chem- 
icals in the compound are uniform.^ 

3. How do the tests of tlie various compounds insure that 
the United States Rubber Company's product is best 
fitted to stand up under all-weather use.^ 

4. TTow are we assured that the products are kept up to our 
laboratory standards as they go through the factory 
processes? 



R IC 



CHAPTER IV 



FABRICS 



Fabrics of practicalh^ every kind and variety, suitable for 
clothing, are used by the Company. Rubber surface goods 
are usually made with cotton fabrics, plain or twill weave; 
while in the single and double texture line a wide variety of 
cloths is used, from those which are all wool, all silk, or all 
cotton, to those containing wool and cotton, or cotton and 
silk. 

Cotton and wool possess certain distinctive qualities by 
which each is recognizable. A knowledge of the general qual- 
ities of each of these materials will enable a salesman to de- 
termine the material of which a cloth on any of the Com- 
pany's garments is made, or, if the cloth be made of more 




Dry Goods Department 
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Facts for Salesmen 



than one, what each is and the general proportions of each. 

Structure of Fabrics. Practically every fabric used in the 
Company's clothing is a woven fabric; i.e., a fabric consist- 
ing of two interlaced sets of threads running at right angles 
to each other. These threads are called warp and filling. 
Warp threads run in the lengthwise direction of a cloth ; fill- 
ing threads run crosswise. In most fabrics, the warp strands 
lie closely together, very straight; filling strands are usually 
more wavy and loosely woven. Warp and filling threads in 
turn, are composed of numberless smaller filaments, called 
fibres, and it is the quality of these fibres that determines the 
commercial value of the cloth. In some fabrics the warj) is a 
different material from that in the filling: other fabrics are 
made of warp and filling strands in which different materials 
have been mixed. For instance, a cloth composed of cotton 
and wool may have a cotton warp and wool filling, or the 
warp and filling may be composed of mixed cotton and wool 
fibres. 

Cotton and Wool. Wool makes a warmer cloth covering 
than cotton, and for two reasons. First, wool is a non-conduc- 
tor of heat. Second, wool cloths hold more still air between 
their fibres, and still air is a poor conductor of heat. The 
warmth of the body, therefore, does not quickly pass through 
a good wool garment. 

The wool fibre is curly, or wavy, and more elastic and re- 
silient than cotton. It absorbs more moisture and retains it 
a longer time. But cotton, it is interesting to note, is con- 
siderably stronger than the majority of wools. 

Wool. Wool is obtained from the fleece covering of 
certain animals, chiefly sheep and goats. To classify these 
wools is practically impossible. Their quality is conditioned 
not alone by the breed of the animal, but by its health and 
cleanliness, the nature of pasturage, and climatic condi- 
tions. The best grades of wool come from the Merino — a 
sheep native to Spain but which was introduced into Austra- 

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Fabrics 



lia, England, Saxony, America and other countries. Saxony, 
Merino and certain types of Australian wool are generally 
preferred, and command the best prices, because of the fine- 
ness, elasticity, and felting or shrinking capacity of the fibres. 

The wool fibre has a very peculiar and interesting con- 
struction. Its outer surface consists of a layer of scales lying 
one upon another, presenting a more or less smooth, hard 
surface which reflects the light and gives the finished fabric 
its luster. The finer and more numerous these scales, the 
softer, more pliable and wavy the fibre; when the scales are 
large and fit over one another very tightly and closely, there 
is no freedom of motion and the fibre is straigh tan drigid. The 
waviness of fibres makes them well adapted for good spin- 
ning and felting. Wools whose fibres are wavy, soft and fine, 
make the best clothing. 

Worsted and Wool. Wool garments are usually spoken 
of as being made of worsted yarn or woolen yarn. Cloth 
made of worsted yarn is smooth, lustrous, and exceptionally 
strong; cloth made of woolen yarn has an uneven, fuzzy 
surface and is not so strong as the worsted. This difference 
results from the different ways of treating the fibres prepar- 
atory to weaving the fabric. 

In making worsted yarn, the fibres are run through a card- 
ing machine, which combs them and lays them parallel to one 
another. The fibres are run into a loose rope, or sliver, which 
is put through a special combing process, on a Combing Ma- 
chine. In this process all the short fibres are pulled out, leav- 
ing only those of a uniform, standard length to be made into 
yarn. The extra length of these fibres gives the increased 
strength to the worsted cloth, for the long fibres can be twist- 
ed more, thus securing a tighter grip upon one another. The 
hard, smooth, lustrous surface characterizing worsted fabric 
is secured through laying the fibres parallel before twisting or 
spinning them, and the use only of fibres of uniform length. 

When woolen yarn is used a fabric having a fuzzy surface 

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Facts for Salesmen 



is produced. The wool fleece is run through carding ma- 
chines, but the purpose is simply to disentangle the fibres and 
remove foreign substances. No combing operation is per- 
formed to cull out the short fibres. No attempt is made to lay 
the fibres parallel in the carding operation or in any succeed- 
ing operation in the manufacture of woolen yarn: everything 
is done to arrange the fibres in a criss-cross indefinite fashion. 
From the carding machine the fibres are run into slivers, 
taken to the spinning sales, and spun into yarn. Because of 
the criss-cross condition of the fibres, their ends project; and 
the finished yarn, and therefore the finished fabric, has its 
characteristic fuzzy surface. 

Weaving. The weaving process is the same for both 
worsted and woolen yarns. It is done on looms, by inter- 
lacing two sets of threads, the warp and filling. 




R 20 



•.W-VV-.V^AV-V-A^.-.V 




Facts for Salesmen 



There are three primary types of weaving in clothing gar- 
ments: the plain, twill, and satin weaves. In the plain weave, 
the warp and filling threads pass over and under each other 
uniformly throughout the fabric. In this weave, the threads 
are interlaced to the greatest extent, and the resulting fabric 
is therefore stronger than a fabric of any other weave made 
of similar warp and filling strands. 

The twill weave occurs in many forms, but each is char- 
acterized by a series of pronounced diagonal lines or ridges 
on the face of the fabric. 

The satin weave produces a cloth with a very smooth lus- 
trous surface. This is accomplished by passing each filling 
thread over a series of warp threads, then under one, etc. ; or 
the order ma}' be reversed, and each warp thread might pass 
over a number of filling threads, under one, etc. In either 
case the surface of the cloth produced will consist of smooth, 
parallel strands. The smooth surface reflects the light rays 
and gives the cloth its rich, lustrous appearance. The satin 
weave is used only with silk yarns, where the peculiarly char- 
acteristic lustre of the weave can be brought out to advantage 
as in linings, or facings. 

Finishing. When the plain woolen or worsted fabric has 
been woven, it is measured and inspected. All knots and 
loose threads are removed and anj^ breaks in the threads are 
repaired. 

The cloths are then fulled. Fulling consists essentially in 
shrinking the cloth, rendering it stronger, more compact and 
firm. It is done by soaking the cloth in hot water and soap, 
scouring it, and rubbing the fibres and yarns together 
by passing the cloth through two wooden rolls. By this 
process some woolen cloths are fulled to nearly one-half 
their original length and width. 

The amount of fulling distinguishes certain varieties of 
cloth; in the treatment of broadcloth, for instance, and other 
nap finished wools, the fulling is carried to a point where the 

R 2^2 



Fabrics 



fibres become densely matted, obliterating all traces of the 
weave and giving the cloth the appearance of felt. (Napping 
consists in passing the cloth over one or two large drnms or 
cylinders whose surfaces are studded with fine steel hooks or 
teasels; the ends of the fibres are pulled out and the thick, 
fuzzy surface on the cloth is thereby produced). 

This napped surface is produced on cotton fabrics in a 
similar manner. 

Printed and Dyed Cloths. A printed fabric is one in which 
the patterns in any variety of colors, have been impressed 
upon one surface only. A dyed fabric is entirely impregnated 
with a color. A printed fabric may be distinguished from 
a dyed cloth very readily by unravelling a sniall portion and 
noting whether the fibres are of the same color throughout. 
Cotton. Cotton is a vegetable product, grown on cot- 
ton plantations. Its commercial value depends upon the 
length, fineness, strength and cleanliness of its fibres, and 
these qualities vary in the products of difterent plantations in 
different parts of the world. 

To classify cottons for commercial purposes, a minute 
system of grading has been established. The following out- 
line shows the principal varieties of cotton, in the order of 
their relative commercial values. 

PRINCIPAL VARIETIES OF COTTON 



j Sea Island 


Qualities 

Fibre Iji" to 1^", strong 
and silky 


Where grown 

Southeastern 
Coast of U. S. 
Ariz., So. Cal. 


Estimated 
crop produc- 
tion for 1920 

in bales of 
500 lbs. each 

1,8G8 


Arizona Egyptian 
1 Egyptian and 
^ Sakellarides 


Fibre VA" to 1^" 
Fibre l}i" to IH'' 




Ariz, and So. Cal- 
ifornia 
Egypt 


92,561 
1,127,140 


Peruvian 
Peeler 

American Upland 


Fibre 1^" to l}4" 
Fibre 1^" and over 

Fibre 34" to iVs" 

R 


23 


South America 
Southern States 

of U. S. 
Southern States 

of U. S. 


165,000 

1,425,000 

13,372,369 



Facts for Salesmen 



Manufacture of Cotton Fabrics. Cotton does not require 
the elaborate treatment that does wool in being prepared for 
manufacturing. After the cotton is picked on the plantation, 
the seeds are removed on a Ginning Machine and the cotton 
is compressed in bales — in which form it arrives at the tex- 
tile mills. Here the cotton passes through the following pro- 
cesses: Picking, which separates the matted fibres and beats 
out the dirt, leaves and remaining seeds; Carding, which fur- 
ther cleanses the cotton, combs the fibres, and lays them par- 
allel to one another in the form of a loose rope or sliver; Spin- 
ning, which twists the strands of fibres, thus forming them 
into yarns of desired weight, twist and strength ; and Weav- 
ing, in which process the yarns are interwoven with each 
other, making the fabric. Sometimes cotton yarn is put 
through an additional process called Combing, in which 
the short fibres are removed. This process is similar to that 
used in the making of worsted yarns. 

Testing of Fabrics Used in Company's Clothing. Ihe 
United States Rubber Company has established definite 
standards to which all fabrics which are purchased must con- 
form before acceptance into the factories. Here one of the 
many advantages of our tremendous organization is seen 
in concrete effect. The Company buys fabrics in such large 
quantities that it can practically order goods manufactured 
to its own specifications. Tests have been instituted to de- 
termine that the cloths purchased contain no injurious sub- 
stances, such as copper and manganese in the dyes; that 
they contain the proper amount of wool, silk, or cotton, 
that they are dyed fast, that they possess standard strength, 
weight and fineness of weave. 

Wool. The test for ascertaining that the wool fabrics pur- 
chased contain the specified amount of wool depends upon 
the fact that a solution of caustic soda completely dissolves 
wool. A sample of the cloth is first weighed, then immersed 
in caustic soda; after a specified time, the portion of the cloth 

R 24 



Fabrics 

remaining is removed and washed, dried, and weighed. The 
difference in weight indicates the amount of wool which was 
present and the percentage is then calculated. 

A very simple method for showing the relative amount of 
wool in a fabric, is to burn a small portion of the cloth. Wool, 
being an animal product, burns very slowly. It has an unmis- 
takable, strong odor. Cotton burns rapidly, leaves very little 
ash, and has no distinguishing odor. The difference in the 
effect of combustion upon cotton and wool is readily seen by 
burning a cloth made of cotton warp and wool filling. 

Silk. The test for silk in a silk-cotton fabric is con- 
ducted similarly to the solution test on wool, but the solu- 
tion is one in which silk dissolves. The weight of the sample 
cloth is taken before and after the test, and the difference 
in weight noted; the percentage of silk which was present is 
then calculated. 

Color. Two tests are made on all dyed and printed fab- 
rics for fastness of color. The first is carried out by placing 
the dyed fabric in water for a given time and noting whether 
or not the water becomes color stained. The second test is 
supplementary and consists in removing the wet sample and 
placing it on a white fabric. If the dye runs, it is instantly 
determined, for the white fabric shows the stain. 

Strength. Each fabric purchased is tested for strength 
by the Grab method. A sample of the fabric, of definite 
length and width, is placed between the jaws of a Grab Test- 
ing Machine, and strained to the point of rupture, a dial re- 
cording the number of pounds of force required to produce 
the break. Samples of each fabic purchased are thus tested, 
both for warp and filling strength, and if the cloth does not 
measure up to our minimum, established standard, the en- 
tire lot is rejected. 

Cotton fabrics possess greater strength in a moist than in 
a dry atmosphere, the increase of strength depending upon 
the amount of moisture present. Because of this fact, each 

R 25 



Facts for Salesmen 







Grab Testing Machine 



factory takes into consideration the humidity of the atmos- 
phere, determined by a suitable instrument and makes the 
necessary allowance on the result as indicated on the Grab 

R 26 



Fabrics 



Machine. The strength of all pnrchasecl cloths under vary- 
ing conditions is therefore uniformly ascertained. 

Weave. Fabrics are tested for fineness of weave by count- 
ing the number of warp and filling strands per square inch , 
over different areas in various samples. Each cloth purchased 
must not go below our standard minimum. 

Weight. The weight test gives final assurance that a fab- 
ric is not only of standard strength and fineness of weave, but 
that it actually contains the proper amount of material. The 
laboratories in the mills are equipped with delicate torsion 
scales which indicate the precise weight of the fabric. 

The Manufacturing Department of Ihe Company con- 
ducts all these tests with minute care. Fabrics which do not 
; conform to our established specifications are rejected. Every 
precaution is taken that the cloths used on the Company's 
clothing articles are of the very highest qualities which the 
selling prices of the articles allow. 



REVIEW^ 

1. Define the following terms: 

warp worsted yarn carding picking 

filling ginning sliver woolen yarn 

fulling combing napping 

Which of these terms refer to processes used in the 
manufacture of both woolen and cotton cloths.^ 
Which to only one .^ 

2. What are the three chief kinds of weaves.^ Which two 
are most extensively used in the Company's clothing 
products .^^ 

3. What are the chief tests used to determine the percent- 
age of cotton and wool and cotton and silk in fabrics? 
What simple test can be used for approximate results.^^ 

4. What three chief tests are made on all fabrics.^ In this 
respect, what advantage is offered by the great size of 
the United States Rubber Company? 

R 27 



CHAPTER V 
DESIGNING OF CLOTHING 

The Clothing Division of the United States Rubber Com- 
pany maintains four designing departments, each of which 
speciaHzes on one of the following: (1) Men's rubber surface 
and Slipons: (2) Women's and misses' rubber surface 
and Slipons : (3) Boy's rubber surface and Slipons: and (4) 
Repello cloth coats. Each department has its own chief de- 
signer with staff of assistants. These designers are men who 
are backed with many years of practical experience. 

Leadership of Company in Clothing Styles. In addi- 
tion to modes created by our own Company, generally 
speaking waterproof clothing follows the accepted seasonal 
st^des. Its leadership is traceable to the efficiency of its de- 
signing departments, of the personnel responsible for the final 
adoption of new styles, and to the progressiveness of the 
Clothing Division in securing the latest foreign and American 
models. 

The latest and best styles of English and French coats are 
obtained for the designers, through the foreign representa- 
tives and branches of the Company. Suggestions are received 
from the Company 's salesmen and managers — men who are 
always in contact with the dealers throughout the country. 

Through these various means, the pulse of style demand 
is continuously determined. At the approach of each season, 
each designer works out his patterns and sample garments 
are made up. 

Before any new style is finally accepted as a model, and 
the garments produced in quantity, it is approved by the 
head of the Clothing Division, representing the sales organi- 
zation — a man w^ho is an affirmed leader in the clothing in- 

R 29 



Facts for Salesmen 



dustry constantly in touch with the sales force and with 
trade conditions and tendencies. 

Samples approved, they are returned to the factory. The 
necessary number of garments is made up and shown to the 
branch store buyers for their selection according to their par- 
ticular needs. 

This briefly, is the story behind the development of a new 
style "Raynster. " The design and construction features in 
ev^ery coat produced are the products of many weeks and 
mctnths of thought on the part of men who have had years of 
practical experience, who are especially trained in the work 
and who are in the best possible position to know trade ten- 
dencies. There is a logical reason for the style design of every 
part of each garment manufactured. "Raynsters" are dis- 
tinctive for their appropriateness and attractiveness of de- 
sign. The styles are varied and numerous, always progres- 
sive, but in conformance with good taste. 



R 30 



CHAPTER VI 

MANUFACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF RUBBER 
SURFACE CLOTHING 

The manufacture of the Company's rubber surface 
waterproof clothing is divided into the following processes: 



TEXTILES 



RUBBER 



COMPOUNDING 
INGREDIENTS 



Testing 



Pic^kiaq of biirrH 
and kin)ts, l> rushing 



Drying 



Tests and 
classification 



Test! 




Final inspection 
and shipping 



Churning 



Washing and Drying Rubber. A garment coated with gum 
containing particles of sand, or dirt, will crack where these 

R 31 



Facts for Salesmen 



particles occur. Rubber, arriving at the factory, therefore, 
must be well washed before it is used. 

Rubber is washed on a machine containing two horizon- 
tally-placed steel rolls, over which flows a steady stream of 
lukewarm water. The rolls revolve at different speeds, at 
least one roll being grooved. As the rubber is drawn through 
the rolls, it is shredded apart, impurities are squeezed to the 
surface and washed away in the cu.rrent of water. This pro- 



f 




Crude Rubber Being Washed 

cess is continued until inspection shows that all dirt has been 
removed. The rubber is now in the form of wrinkled sheets, 
well saturated with water. 

That the rubber be dry before being mixed with other in- 
gredients and used as proofing on fabrics is essential. If 
moistin-e be allowed to remain in the rubber, the heat of vul- 
canization will produce blisters and a faulty product will re- 
sult. After washing, therefore, the rubber is thoroughly dried 
in a darkened room in which the temperature and humidity 
are automatically maintained at the proper point. 

R 3^2 



Manufacture and Construction 



Mixing and Compounding. Drying completed, the rubber 
is toiigli and must be broken down into a soft, plastic mass 
preparatory to mixing, so that it will properly absorb the 
compounding ingredients. The mill upon which the breaking 
down operation is performed, the Grinding Mill, is equipped 
with two steam heated steel rolls, through which the rubber 
is run until it is dough-like in its consistency. In this condi- 
tion it is delivered to the Compounding Room. 




Preparing Crude Rubber for the Cracker (Warming Mill) 

In the Compounding Room the rubber is cut into units of 
specified weight so that there will be no mistake in mixing in 
it the proper proportions of chemical ingredients — sulphur, 
litharge, etc. These ingredients, nearly all of which are min- 
eral powders, are then carefully weighed out in proper 
amounts and placed together in a "batch" which is then ready 
for mixing. The weighing out of compound ingredients is 
very important, and is done under the careful supervision of 
the foreman of the Calender Room. 

R 33 



Facts for Salesmen 



Mixing. Upon the thoroughness with which the rubber 
absorbs the powder ingredients, depends the durabihty of 
the product. No small lumps must be allowed to remain in 
the mixture, nor any unevenly distributed particles, or the 
rubber film on the finished garment is likely to crack; just as 
it is if crystalline particles of matter are present. Skilled 
operators control ihe mills on which the rubber and chemicals 
are mixed. 

The Mixing Mill is larger than the Grinding Mill, though 
similar in construction, having two steel rolls, supplied with 
steam and cold water fittings to maintain a definite temper- 
ature and revolving toward each other at different speeds. 
The rubber is first run through the mill until it is warm and 
soft and forms a continuous sheet around one roll. The rolls 
are then brought slowly together so that the rubber sheet is 
just carried against the second roll, thus forming a little bank 
on top. The batch of chemicals is then emi)tied in the mill 
which carries the chemicals through the rolls and works them 
into the soft rubber mass. Frequently the operator slashes 
the rubber sheet with a knife and doubles it back upon itself, 
to secure the most thorough possible uniformity of mixture. 
By regulating the supply of steam or cold water, the temper- 
ature is never allowed to get above a certain point, as an ex- 
cess of heat at this stage would slightl}' pre-vulcanize the 
compound, and render it less plastic on the calender. 

xVs a further precaution that no lumps remain in the com- 
pound preparatory to calendering, the mixture, after having 
been allowed to remain for a time in a cool storeroom to re- 
gain its maximum strength, is put through a Refining Mill. 
This mill consists primarily of tw^o heavy rolls equipped with 
heating appliances, very similar in construction to the Grind- 
ing Mill. The operator adjusts the rolls until they almost 
touch each other; and as the rubber compound passes 
through, any lumps that might possibly have remained in it 
are broken down. The compound is now ready for calender- 

R 34 



Manufacture and Construction 



ing, in which process the gum will be sheeted out into layers 
and run onto the fabric lining. 

Preparation of Fabrics for Calendering. When the fabrics 
to be used in making rubber surface coats have passed the 
various tests described on pages 24-27, special operators set to 
work to pick out all knots, loose threads, and burrs, and make 




The Calendar 

yardage examination. The cloth is then thoroughly brushed 
« in a brushing machine, and the loose nap and threads are re- 
moved through suction pipes. It is very essential that the 
surface of the cloth be uniformly smooth, so that the coating 
of gum may be evenly distributed; knots or burrs in a cloth 
would eventually pierce through the calendered gum coating 
when the garment was handled and folded. 

R 35 



Facts for Salesmen 



The fabrics are then carefully dried on a dr\'ing machine. 
This machine is made with a series of large drums, all of 
which are equipped w^ith steam fittings. Over these warmed 
drums the fabrics are slowly run so that they are dry before 
going into the proofing process. The effect of using damp 
cloths is similar to that of using moist rubber — blistering of 
the rubber film results. 

Calendering. A calender is a machine having either three 
or four steel rolls, which sheets out the rubber and applies it 
evenly to the fal)ric. All the rolls are equipped with steam 




and cold water appliances, by means of which the calender 
operator maintains the rolls at an even temperature. The 
batch of rubber and the rolls of the calender must be of uni- 
form temperature, neither too hot nor too cold, or the gum 
does not calender out into a soft, plastic sheet of uniform 
smoothness. The calender operators in the factories are well 
trained, experienced workmen. Skilled men are absolutely 
essential to this job — thousands of dollars' worth of rubber 
passes through the calenders every day, and an inefficient 
man would cause high spoilage. As indicated in the diagram, 
gum is fed into the calender between the upper rolls, forming 

R 36 



Manufacture and Construction 



a smooth, soft sheet around roll B. (diagram) The cloth is 
fed between the two lower rolls, and the sheet of calendered 
gum is pressed firmly upon the cloth, securing perfect adhe- 
sion. The thickness of the layer of calendered gum thus ap- 
plied may be varied by adjusting the distance between the 
calender rolls. 

The rubber surface of the calender coated cloth is sticky, 
or tacky, and has a highly lustrous appearance. It is there- 



I ' --5 "■'vm -^mm im mmimf 




Clothing Cutting 



fore passed through another machine which consists mainly 
of a dust box and two separate series of brushes. The dust 
box deposits a fine coating of powder upon the rubber surface 
— the color depending upon the desired color of the finished 
product — while the brushes work a fine film of the powder into 
the gum. As the cloth comes from this machine, the rubber 
surface has a soft, rich, velvet appearance and is no longer 
sticky. It is wound up on a drum while an operator carefully 
examines it for defects. 

R 37 



Facts for Salesmen 



Superior Finishing on Company s Coats. The rubberized 
doth is then specially treated on a so-called Finishing ]\Ia- 
chine — a machine consisting essentially of two smooth steel 
rolls, both of which are equipped with steam heat and cold 
water appliances. When the rolls are of proper temperature, 
the coated cloth is run through; the surface powder already 
brushed into the rubber film is pressed into the rubber sur- 
face, making permanent the rich, velvety finish. 




Coat Makiiifj 

The fine finish on the rubber surface of the Company's 
garments is achieved partly through this additional treat- 
ment in the manufacturing process, and partly through the 
use of a special compound ingredient. The use of this ingre- 
dient adds the further, unique advantage of enabling the 
Company's rubber surface clothing products to resist, to the 
greatest degree, despoiling agents. Tn this way, the ageing 
qualities of the garments are greatly increased. 

Quality Inspection. All possible precautions are taken at 
the factories that every piece of calendered cloth is up to 

R 38 



Manufacture and Construction 



our standard in every way before it goes to the cutting room. 
Every day, before the compounds are run on tlie calenders, 
samples of each compound are taken to the factory's chem- 
ical laboratory and tested for strength, stretch and perman- 
ent elongation. Special mills and calenders are maintained 
for running white goods in order that these goods may not be 
soiled. The workmen in the calender department are care- 
fully trained, and careful attention is paid to the proper 
upkeep of machinery. Constant supervision is exercised 
throughout the entire work. 

Cutting. The calendered cloth is now ready to be cut 
into the various parts of garments. Many layers are cut at 
once — from forty to seventy-five — depending upon the 
weight and texture of the material. To get the cloth in the 
plied-up form for cutting it is first wound up on an immense 
drum, one layer upon another, until the desired number of 
layers have been applied, and is then sliced off and laid upon 
the cutter 's table. 

The actual cutting is done by power machine. Upon the 
top layer of rubberized cloth the operator, using previously 
prepared perforated patterns, marks the outlines of the pat- 
terns for the different parts of the garments — fronts, backs, 
collars, sleeves etc. The parts are then cut out, marked and 
done up in bundles for the makers. 

Making. In the Making Department center the activities 
of all the preceding departments. Here all parts of the coat 
are assembled. When it is known that there are many differ- 
ent styles of rubber surface coats, each of which has twenty 
or more different parts, we may get some idea of the organ- 
ization ]:>robIems that develop here. Add to this also that 
each of these styles is made up in eight or nine different sizes, 
fabrics and colors, we begin to realize the importance of, and 
the many-sided nature of, the problem the Making Room 
presents. 

Chaos would result unless a well conceived method were 

R 39 



Facts for Salesmen 



Hanger cemented 
on and riveted 



Extra reinforcing 

rivet holding 

front and 

collar 



All 
henimed 



Ejctra reinforcing pieces 
added at vent 



Rubber Surface Coat 
R 40 




I 



Manufacture and Construction 

in use. In the United States Rubber Company's factories 
a simple but efficient plan eliminates practically all possibil- 
ity of mixing parts, without causing confusion to the makers. 
It is based on the Post Office system. Each maker has a num- 
bered box. As the parts are cut, in the Cutting Room, they 
are marked with the maker's number, and put in the box. 
The different parts come in, in this way, until the complete 
supply is ready. The maker simply opens his box and takes 
them out. When so many variations are possible, it is inevi- 
table that some errors will be made. But the Post Office meth- 
od of distributing parts, when the magnitude of the problem is 
taken into consideration, makes the system as near perfect as 
seems now possible. 

The great majority of rubber surface coats have no stitch- 
ing, because it is unnecessary. Vulcanization welds the parts 
together. The first operation in the Making Department, 
therefore, is the cementing of the edges on the various j^arts. 

The parts of the coats are then prepared in the following 
general order. No attempt is here made to describe in detail 
the operations of the makers; these operations vary with the 
different styles of garments and are important only from a 
manufacturing view point. (For indentification of parts, see 
diagram on page (-10). 

(1) Sleeves — consisting of two parts, oversleeve and under- 
sleeve. Edges of seams which show, and bottom edge of 
sleeve also, are carefully hemmed. By hennning is meant the 
folding back of an edge upon itself, along its margin, thus gi\'- 
ing an edge of double thickness, firm and neat appearing. 

(2) Pocket Laps — consisting usually of two parts, one cut 
slightly larger than the other. These are laid together, lining 
surfaces toward each other, and the edges of the larger part 
are folded down over the edges of the smaller. The over-lap- 
ping corners are cut to make a neat fit. This pocket lap is 
sturdy. 

(3) Backs — hemmed around their entire edge, and back 

R 41 



Facts for Salesmen 



pieces are added at vents. The back piece itself is in two 
parts, hemmed on all sides, reinforcing the vent. 

(4) Collars — There are two distinct types of collars used; 
the plain collar, cemented directly on the coat, and the band 
collar (or Century) a shaped collar made u]) before attaching 
to the coat. 

(5) Fronts — front and front facing, hemmed and cemented 
together. Between these, stays, of rubberized fabric, are add- 
ed to reinforce those places at which the buckles or buttons 



Hanger cernented 
between the collar 
bands and riveted 



Extra nvet 
reinforcement 
holding collar 
and front 



Fabric coated on 
both sides with 
rubber 



Outer collar band 




Inner collar band 
Rubber Surface CoHar 



will be later attached. Eyelets for ventilation are added un- 
der the arm scyes. 

(6) Pockets — a slit is made in each front to fit the size of the 
already prepared pocket lap. Around the edge of slit is placed 
a strong piece of cord, cemented with the same high-grade 
cement used on all seams, and over this cord the pocket edge 
is folded. There is considerable strain at the edges and ends 
of a pocket. The cord on the Company's coats safeguards 
against tearing or ripping. Pocket lap is carefully adjusted 
and cemented in place. Special pocket stays are added for 
reinforcement. Then the pocket itself is added, on inside of 
front, thoroughly rolled down and trimmed neatly. 

All parts having been prepared, sleeves, front, back and 

R 42 



Manufacture and Construction 



collar are joined together. Where any two parts come together 
the seam edge that shows is always carefully hemmed 
so that the finished garment is neat appearing and strong. 
All seams are cemented. At every seam, because of the hem- 
ming at edges on various parts, as noted, rubber meets rub- 
ber; and because of this, the seams are fused together during 
vulcanization, realizing a moisture-excluding union. 



Two parts of 
lapel cemented 
together 




Area where pocket 
cover is cemented 
to inside of coat 



Pocket cover 
cemented to 
inside of coat 



Pocket stay 



Rubber Surface Pocket 



Inspection and System of Work in Making Room. When 
the maker has finished work on all the garments called for by 

1 his ticket, he takes them to the foreman of the Making De- 
partment. Each garment is carefully examined. The Manu- 

H facturing Department has made its system of inspection very 
rigid. Each maker is held responsible, not alone for the qual- 
ity of his ovAU workmanship, but also that the quality of 
every part in each garm ent he assembles is standard. He is 
instructed not to use any part that is not perfect; when in- 
s])ection shows that a maker has done so 



he is obliged to 



R 43 



Facts for Salesmen 



make over the entire ganiient or rij) out the defective part 
and substitute a new part. 

Some of the work in the Making Room is done according 
to a sectionized plan; i.e., the work is specialized, each maker 
concentrating on individual operations. This plan is so oper- 
ated, however, that a defective part in any finished article is 
immediately traceable to the i)ersons responsible. No op- 
erator in any section is allowed to accept, from the i)receding 
operator, work that is not standard. 

Each clothing factory maintains a training school for ma- 
kers. The best known methods of performing every operation 
are taught and no maker is allowed to take his or her place in 
the Making Room until the required standard of workman- 
ship has l)een attained. 

Cement. It is evident that the service given by a rubber 
surface garment depends largely upon the cement used in 
binding the parts together, and in this respect, as in others, 
the United States Rubber Company has a noteworthy and a 
unique advantage. The cement used on the Company's gar- 
ments is not made of pure gum — a feature claim of many 
waterproof clothing makers, nor is it made of high-grade re- 
claimed stock. The Company's cement is superior in that it 
is made of a specially prepared rubber compound. It has 
body and strength. It cures into a homogeneous, elastic, 
moisture-excluding substance that will retain its desirable 
qualities during the life service of the coat. The rubber used 
in making our cement is Wild Para, than which no better has 
yet been found for cement making purposes. One of the very 
best testimonies to the unusually high quality of the Com- 
pany's cement is the fact that during the Great War the Uni- 
ted States Government, after a thorough investigation of the 
cements used on various raincoats, adopted that which was 
made by the United States Rubber Company as a universal 
standard. 

R 44 



Manufacture and Construction 



Vulcanizing. When the coats are made up and approved 
at the final Making Room inspection, they are ready to be 
vulcanized. In this process the rubber and sulphur chemic- 
ally combine, forming a rubber gum that is elastic, dry and 
resilient and capable of retaining these qualities through 
varying degrees of heat and cold. Curing is another name for 
vulcanization. 

The clothing vnlcanizer is an immense, air-tight oven, 
or chamber, equipped with a series of coiled steam pipes. 



;»^ 




^^^^^Tn^-^^ 







X'ulcanizing Rooms 

Within the vnlcanizer the garments are hung on forms; the 
door is securely closed, and the temperature within is slowly 
increased until it reaches the point which has been ascertained 
by the laboratory department of the Company to be best for 
vulcanizing. This point, and the length of time it is main- 
tained vary according to the compound. Each vnlcanizer is 
equipped with a dial gauge upon which an indicator graphi- 
cally records the temperature within at every moment. The 
operator knows the exact rate at which the vulcanizing heat 

R 45 



Facts for Salesmen 



is to be raised and the dial is not only a precise guide to him, 
but, in leaving an unalterable record of the cure, is a check 
upon the work. 

Finishing. The coats are taken from the vulcanizer and 
brought to the Finishing Room where another close inspec- 
tion of each article is made. Rivets are added at the ends of 
collars, pockets, and at all points where strain occurs in wear. 
Fasteners are put on, varying acc( rding to the style of coat. 
The types of fasteners are: ball and socket, snap and ring, 
metallic button and buckles. They are carefully attached to 
the coats at the proper places, which have been already rein- 
forced with stays in the Making Room, as described. 

Final Inspection. Packing and Shipping. A final examin- 
ation of each individual coat is now made. Every possible 
precaution has been taken by the Manufacturing Department 
to cull out all defective garments. Final examination is 
made by trained inspectors. Every defective coat is set aside 
and the defect referred back to the person responsible. The 
ticket which follows the work through the factory is so ar- 
ranged that the operatoi's who perforni the work on each part 
of each garment are known. 

When final inspection shows that a garment is in standard 
condition it is folded and packed in a carton, reafly for ship- 
ment. 

REVIEW 

1 . What is the purpose of th e grinding mill ? 

2. What two things are to be guarded against in mixing.^ 
Wliy is skill necessary here? 

3. Why is such extreme care taken in preparing the fabrics 
for calendering? 

4. Review the general order in which coats are assembled. 
(a) How are the pockets in our coats strengthened against 

ripping? 

R 46 



Manufacture and Construdtion 



(b) Why are the seams especially sturdy ? 

(c) What fact can be advanced to prove the superiority of 
our cement? 

5. How is the quality of material and workmanship check- 
ed through the construction of the coat? 



R 47 



Facts for Salesmen 



The Fire Coat, as its name implies, is one that is snbjected 
to unusual service and put to the severest test for its water- 
proof quality. For this reason it must be made of a strong 
fabric, and a jean is used. This fabric is double coated, the 
seams are sewed and cemented, giving added strength. 

In its make-up are included the following features: — 
48'' length with full sweep, giving absolute freedom to the 
fireman, a corduroy collar for neck comfort, adjustable straps 
and buckles on the sleeve, so that the garments may be 
tightened around the wrist if desired. Storm Fly front for 
added protection, galvanized snap and ring fasteners that 
will not rust. 




R 48 



Manufacture and Construction 



The Regulation Police Coat is made to meet the demands 
of the policeman, who is exposed to all kinds of weather for 
indefinite periods. It is cut extra long, has a double over- 
jacket extending over the back, front and tops of sleeve, 
giving double protection at the most vulnerable part of the 




coat. In addition, the inside back is ventilated to prevent 
condensation of moisture on the inside of the coat, ball and 
socket fasteners permitting the garment to be easily opened 
when necessary. 

Other rubber coats are designed for street or general wear 
for various department uses and in fact, to meet any con- 
dition where a rubber coat is required. 

R 49 



CHAPTER VII 

MANUFACTURE OF SLIPONS 
SINGLE AND DOUBLE TEXTURE CLOTHING 

The testing of the rubber, the compound ingredients and 
the fabrics, and the preparaton of these substances for use 
in the factory is done with the same care and in the same 
way as has been before described. No details of this work, 
therefore, are here repeated. Likewise many processes em- 
ployed in the manufacture of rubber surface coats and Shp- 
ons are the same. This chapter attempts to give only as much 
additional information as will be necessary for a clear picture 
of the essential differences between the manufacture of the 
two types of clothing. 

Single Texture coats comprise all those having fabric 
outer surface and rubber lining; double texture coats refer to 
those ha\ ing fabric outer surface and fabric lining, the gum 
being interposed between the two and therefore invisible. 
In both types the gum coatings consist of many layers, built 
up one upon another, on the fabric. 

Preparation of Rubber Compound. Single and Double 
Texture coats must he soft and pliable as well as waterproof. 
The w^eight of the garment depends upon the service for 
which it is intended. The gum for these types of clothing is 
therefore especially prepared. 

The rubber is compounded, passed through the Refining 
Mill and, unlike the process explained in the paragraph on 
calendering, is cut into small pieces and taken to the Churn- 
ing Room. Here the rubber compound and a rubber solvent 
— Naphtha — are mixed and churned until the rubber is 
completely dissolved. 

R 50 



Manufacture of Slipons 



The resulting compound, having the consistenc}^ of an 
emulsion is then drawn from the churn in cans, ready for 
use in coating the fabric on the Spreading Machine. 

Spreading. The picture shows the type of spreading ma- 
chine used in the factories. It consists primarily of a knife 
blade suspended directly over a hard rubber roll. The gum 
compound is spread upon the cloth as it passes between the 
roll and the blade. The distance between these is very minute, 




Spreader Room 



and but a very fine coating of gum is applied. This coating, 
being very soft, sinks into every pore on the surface of the 
cloth. After the fabric comes through the roll and blade, it 
travelsover a long series of heated pipes or plates; the naphtha 
is evaporated, leaving the fine layer of rich gum compound 
upon the fabric. The entire process is then repeated, the di- 
rection of the cloth being reversed as each succeeding layer 
of gum is applied. The purpose of alternating the direction 
of the cloth is to secure a smoother surface on each layer 

R 51 



Facts for Salesmen 



thereby increasing the strength and waterproof qualities of 
the cloth. 

Thus are the layers of rubber coating on Slipons built up, 
one upon another, the number depending upon the \yeight 
and texture of the cloth. Six to twelve coatings are the or- 
dinary limits. Through a long series of careful tests on cloths 
rubberized in various ways with varying munbers of gum lay- 
ers, the laboratory departments at the clothing factories have 
determined the most efficient proofing for every fabric used. 

In the case of double texture garments, both outside fab- 
ric and fabric lining are spread with gum in this way; then 
the two are doubled and firmly united by pressing them be- 
tween the rolls of a Doubling Calender. 

Striping and Proofing. The rubber lining on single texture 
clothing is sometimes striped, so that it closely simulates the 
appearance of cloth. These stripes, on the Company's gar- 
ments, are of actual rubber, not prints, and are applied on a 
special machine. They retain their cloth-like appearance 
throughout the life service of the garment. 

In addition to rubber coating the fabrics, the cloths on 
single and double texture garments are further proofed by a 
special process devised by the Company. Because of this 
treatment the fabric siu'face of the garment does not become 
soaked and heavy with rain. 

The natureof the work in the succeedingoperations — cut- 
ting, making, vulcanizing, finishing, inspecting, packing — is 
essentially^ the same as in the manufacture of rubber surface 
coats. The same watchfulness and care are exercised through- 
out all the work and before the coats are packed, they are in- 
dividually examined by a trained corps of inspectors. The 
Manufacturing Department has done everything humanly 
possible to make each coat that leaves the factory worthy in 
every way of the "Raynster" label, the heart of which is the 
Honor Mark of a great company. 

R 52 



Manufacture of Slipons 



Outstanding and Constructional Features. (1) Workman- 
ship on seams. The seams of the Company 's single and double 
texture coats are cemented, stitched and strapped, securing 
a waterproof, sturdy and neat appearing union between all 
parts. Two coatings of cement are applied at each^seam; one 

Cement 





Brush cemented, one edge 

folded over, stitched and 

cemented 



Cemented and 
strapped 



Lapped Seam (Diagram A) 





Brush cemented 
and stitched 



Again cemented 

and folded over 

Used Seam (Diagram B) 



Cemented and 
strapped 



to the joining edges, before they are stitched together, the 
second after they have been stitched. The cement is made 
of wild Para rubber, especially compounded with other ingre- 
dients. The advantages of the Company's cement, and the 

R 53 



Facts for Salesmen 



preference shown by the Government for it (hiring the war, 
should be remembered. 

In the first process the cement is apphed by brush, as on 
other Company coats, and not by the fingers, so that it is 
worked into each little depression on the cloth, between the 
warp and filling strands, Then as the seam is stitched to- 
gether, the needle and thread draw along some of the cement 
from the first coating, so that the needle holes are complete- 
ly filled. The second cement coating finishes the work; the 
needle holes are entirely plugged with cement and the inside 
seam surface is made perfectly smooth, (see diagram page 53.) 

A strip of cloth of the lining material, from one to one and 
a quarter inches wide, which has been waterproofed on the 
Spreading Machine, is cemented on the rubber side, laid over 
each seam and firmly rolled. This strip is called strapping. 
It is the final guarantee that the seams are waterproof. The 
strapping, moreover, strengthens the seams and gives a fin- 
ished appearance to the coats. In the case of single texture 
garments, a color and type of strapping is chosen which best 
harmonizes with the rubber lining. 

(2) Usco Seam. A special seam has been devised by the 
Company, called the Usco Seam, by which the parts are so 
joined that no stitching is visible to the eye. This is the high- 
est combination of utility and appearance that has yet been 
realized in the waterproof clothing industry, and is a feature 
to be emphasized when selling garments made with this seam. 

In an ordinary seam (diagram A) the two cemented edges 
are turned down and held down by stitching, the Usco Seam, 
after being brush cemented, stitched and cemented again, is 
turned down and held down by an extra coating of cement, so 
that no stitching is apparent. (Diagram B) The Usco Seam 
is also strapped on the inside by the rubber-coated and 
cemented strip of fabric. 

(3) Stafast Collar. For heavy double texture and heavy 
single texture coats, such as Ranchkote, Ruggedkote, Real- 

R 54 



Manufacture of Slipons 



Button sewed on to 
button sUy between 
front and tront facing. 
Invisible to the eye 



Seam cemented, 
stitched, cemented 
and strapped 




Extra reinforcing 
pieces at ' 



Edges hemmed 
and double stitched 



Slipt 



R 55 



Facts for Salesmen 



Hanger cemented Edges hemmed 

on and stiched 



EMges hemmed 
and double 
stitched 



Outer collar band 



Seam cemented, 

iched, cemented 

and strapped 




Slipoii ('ollar 



Outside of pocket . 
Pocket lining 



Area where pocket 
cover is cemented 
to inside of coat 




Slipon Pocket 
R 56 



Manufacture of Slipons 



kote, a special stay-fast collar has been devised, the patent 
for which is controlled by the Company. A serious weakness 
in heavy double texture garments was that the hangers tore 
loose from their attachment to the coat collars, due to the 
weight of the garment. The "Stafast" collar overcomes this 
weakness by rivetting the hanger, not only through the col- 
lar, but also through a portion of the back of the coat. This is 
accomplished by a slight change in the cut of the back patt- 
ern, so that the back of the coat runs up under the collar. 
(Diagram ) 

(4) The diagram shows how the Company's "Raynster" 
Slipons are reinforced and finished at all vital points. 



Edges hemmed 



Rivet goes through coat 
and two collar bands 



Outer collar band 



Inner collar band 



Edges hemmed 
and double 
stitched 




Stafast Collar 



REVIEW 

1 . How does the method of applying the rubber compound 
in single and double texture clothing differ from that 
used on rubber surface clothing.^ 

R 57 



Facts for Salesmen 



2. What advantage can be claimed through our method of 
straping on lining of single texture clothing? 

3. Why can a salesman feel confident tliat the seams of the 
"Raynster" are waterproof? 

4. Advance three special constructional features as selling 
arguments. 



R 58 



Manufacture of Slipoxs 





t 




:f<. 




In the Slipon line, whether men's or women's, as ilhis- 
trated, many standard or staple fabrics are used, and in 
addition fancy nimibers, the style of the garment varying 
from season to season just as styles change in ready-to-wear 
clothing. 

R 59 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

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